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SALTO EuroMed

Our aim was to live together and gain a community-rooted experience, to learn from each other, to increase awareness of the Palestinian issue by experiencing Palestinians’ daily life, immersing ourselves in the routine of the local people and hosting organisations. This allowed us to be even more supportive to the Palestinian people and their struggle through volunteering in local non-governmental organisations, as it was possible to live and see the context of oppression in which the Palestinian people have been forced for more than 70 years. 

During this experience we visited different areas: from Ramallah to Jordan Valley, from Nablus to Hebron, passing through Bethlehem, all the way to Jerusalem. Each place told us a different story, a different facet of the occupation: in the big cities, part of the Area A, with their large markets in the old town and many young people in the streets; as well as in the isolated countryside of Bardala in the Area C, from where we could clearly see the border with Jordan, whose city lights enchanted us at night. Each place conveyed different struggles, different emotions, and the stories of the people we met carried an emotional burden full of hopes, with a common dream among all Palestinians: to finally see their land free! 

For a week, we were hosted by Racheed in a mud brick house that he built himself. It is located in Bardala, near Tubas, and reminded me of the countryside in Sardinia, the Italian region I come from: endless expanses of olive trees, donkeys pulled by children already capable at a young age of taking care of the livestock. This is an area where farming and agriculture are the main occupational sectors, and water is crucial, as expected. 

Racheed knows his land perfectly: he is an activist, a reference point for the village because he is also the head of an association, the Jordan Valley Solidarity Movement, and speaks English very well. He tells us about a small fruit that grows only there, domme, it looks like a small apple with a sour taste; he also tells us how the occupation has complete control over water: their pipes have been cut, and they have no autonomy in water management. He shows us places where the occupation has left large wounds, such as in the homes of Bedouin families. 

He took us with his pick-up, all together in one car and it was very fun! 

Nablus is a city in the northern part of Palestine, built on a hill, and all its houses are white: the view from above is spectacular. Akma and Wael welcomed us to their association, Tanweer Center: they involve young people and women in associative activities for self-empowerment and the promotion of study and education, a fundamental aspect in Palestinian families. In fact, the illiteracy rate among the Palestinian population aged 15 and older dropped to 2.5% in 2020, one of the lowest rates in the world. 

Bethlehem has a well known story that oozes from its every wall. There are many pilgrims from all over the world, and amid all these people, it seems to be in another place, far from the violence of the occupation. In reality, you just have to move away from the centre, crowded with tourists, to recognize Palestine: a long and high wall marks the city’s border. On the other side are the colonies defined as illegal by the UN. 

Nearby is a town called Hebron, considered a UNESCO heritage site, and in the old town there is the Mosque of Ibrahim. Hebron has a huge market, which, according to the locals, was once beautiful, full of people, lively, and colourful. Now, only a few shops remain open, as many have abandoned their shops because life there is difficult and constantly in danger. 

Ramallah is the administrative center of the occupied territories. It is lively, with many young people in the streets and several bars. Nearby is one of the best universities in Palestine, the Birzeit University. In the university district, there is also the Palestinian Circus School association, which, by teaching, creating, performing, and programming circus arts, strengthens the creative, social and physical potential of Palestinians, trying to involve and empower them to become constructive actors in society and increase local and international awareness of Palestinian positive potential and its various challenges. 

Finally, Jerusalem. Well, what can I say? One of the most beautiful cities I have seen. The golden dome of the Al-Aqsa Mosque is visible from afar, and when you approach and enter its huge courtyard surrounding it, it is even more imposing and conveys power. It is a sacred place, and its faithful treat it with that respect. It is a city divided into two parts, and if you are not observant, you might not notice the occupation that permeates it. 

At the end of this experience, I returned home grateful for this experience: having the opportunity to meet Palestinians, learn about their struggle, their history, and their resistance allowed me to feel admiration for people that never give up, despite all the circumstances. I returned home with a desire to do my part, to activate myself, to use my privileges as an Italian and European to talk about the things I have seen and heard, sharing a different story from the mainstream, telling my family, friends and acquaintances about my experience and the emotions it gave me. 

The project has this name because we were on the other side, we turned ourselves to the other side of the story, of the wall, just like Makluba.